[jkj454]

Hi Neale (others)-

That last link was great - thank you!

Also, I want to correct what I earlier said about PC wattage - it's 55, not 36. Does that affect anyone's anylsis re: whether or not I need CO2? Just so you know, a CO2 unit is on my Xmas list

I bought a whole bunch of plants yesterday and aquascaped the tank...currently, there are tiger lotus, anubias (two sp.), java fern (two sp.), 4 marimo moss balls. I planted pretty heavily. I realize there aren't really any "quick growers" here, but I just haven't had *any* success at all with stem plants. I'm going to give this a go and cross my fingers. The slow growing anubias, along with crypts, in my FW tank are doing very well, and I have minimal algae problems there. Also, FYI, I used about 3" of Eco-Complete as a substrate.

Secondly, the LFS guy suggested that I gradually build up to using my PCs...he suggested starting with my normal output fluorescents for only a few hours a day, gradually increasing, then switching to the PC and starting of again with only a few hours a day, gradually increasing. In reading the algae article (link from last post), I see the suggested 5-2-5 "siesta" schedule, but no mention of what the LFS guy was talking about. Is what he suggests necessary/beneficial, or will I be OK to go ahead and set up the 5-2-5 w/ the PCs?

Finally, with regard to java fern, I attached a lot to various pieces of driftwood, but then had extra...will this plant survive in the substrate? That's how the LFS had them planted, but you never know with regard to what the stores do...

Thanks again...I think we're almost there:-)

Next topic will be re: fish!!

-JKJ

[flamingonhot]

Seagrass (turtle grass, manatee grass, etc.) can be grown in a normal aquarium. It's harder than macros etc. but can be done. Needs a deep sand bed that's been established with detritus and bacteria, etc. and higher lighting such as power compacts. Some like turtle grass need a recommended 10 inch sand bed supposedly, but IMHO you could go lower.


Straight Vallisneria, IMHO, is the best plant to use in the brackish aquaria, or any freshwater aquarium. I've manintained it in Sg's up to 1.014 at times with no troubles. It's just the perfect plant in my opinion. Easy to maintain, grows readily, does not require high lighting, etc. It's one of the only plants I readily use in my aquariums. Usually I make giant thickets of it, and any one of my fish love playing in the stuff. SO far, my favorite thing i've done with it is the giant plant thicket in my 65 gallon. It was taken down a while ago, but watching the giant strands in the current really looked amazing. I even had them send up flower shoots and release seeds.

[reiverix]

I've also had good growth with vals. Americana has been the outright winner. Widgeon grass (Ruppia maritima) is also another option.

[carracarra130]

hi folks hope you dont minde me adding as Ive a 5ft brakish estury tank on the go with a beach and red mangroves growing (just roots so far bought 11 pods thinking only 2or three may survive but only two didnot make it ' the stock we have is archers4, red scats two monos two (wich will go into our reef as they get older) and 4 indian mudskippers hte tank is partily covered to allow humidty for skippers and growth space for mangroves as will be re homing excess mangroves

[fishfishfish]

i read that anubias work well in brackish tanks.is this true?

[rbittman]

Neale,
I am new to brackish but not new to planted tanks. I recently set up a small planted tank meant to house six small Pseudomugil cyanodorsalis at spg of about 1.003-1.004.
The substrate is ADA Aquasoil Amazonia II and the water is R/O with 1.2 Tbsp marine salt added per gallon (added to source water, not to the tank). Lighting is quite high: 26 watts on 5 gals.

The plants are Java fern, Anubias nana, Eleocharis and Lilaeopsis sp (mini). The plants are doing well and growing, though slower than in a fresh tank. Lilaeopsis is particularly slow, but I understand that may be normal for this plant.

I inject CO2 to a level of 30ppm, measured with a drop checker (CalAqua; essential item!).
So, the tank has been up for a month and is fully cycled. By now the ADA soil should be fairly settled down (it causes drop in pH initially). But, it isn't.

My pH is consistenly below 7.0. I have taken to adding 1/4 tsp. baking soda to raise the pH and add buffering capacity, but should I have to do this given all the Instant Ocean I add?
I have not added the fish yet as I am concerned about the pH being so low.

Any thoughts?

[jonny5]

right now my tank is running at 1.004sg and i (mistakingly for a wanted planted tank) used fine argonite substrate for the light to medium brackish tank. So my ph is at 8.2, salinity above the peek where alot of the "brackish tolerable" plants start to die off, and general and carbonate hardness is quite high.

I threw in some giant valls and hope they would take, at first there was a decent leaf die off, but now all 3 of plant bundles are starting to produce new shoots from the runners about 2-3inches away from the main plant. So Giant val has proven its self very hardy, plus the sheer amount of plant matter it puts into the tank is greatly used by many of my fish.