A To Z Of Tropical Fish Diseases |
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
A To Z Of Tropical Fish Diseases |
Mar 23 2005, 01:20 AM
Post
#21
|
|
|
Newbie Group: Member Posts: 1 Joined: 23-March 05 Member No.: 12636 |
i was on the web sight for the first time and i soo dis covered thru looking at the questions that my pump was not working properly for the past week and i have lost two fish and have just went downstairs and fixed it i hpoe
|
|
|
|
Mar 24 2005, 11:08 AM
Post
#22
|
|
![]() Leader of the Fishes Group: Members Posts: 4482 Joined: 4-March 05 From: Leicestershire UK Member No.: 12237 |
i fond this and thought it would be useful for people with guppies
Bloat When a guppy shows a roughened appearance from the scales standing on end, and it appears to be bloated, it may have an intestinal infection which distends its intestines so greatly that it cannot swim below the surface without great exertion. Some stay in an upright position. Treatment: Try placing the bloated fish in a solution made of two tablespoonfuls of Epsom salts and two tablespoonfuls of Turk Island salt in a gallon of water. Leave it there for 4-6 hours. Then add another gallon of water and let the fish remain in this weaker solution for twelve hours before returning it to tank. Saprolegnia If on the fishes body, a white slimy, flattish patch appears which seems to have replaced a part of the fish's skin, it is probably saprolegnia. Treatment: Isolate the affected fish and disinfect the net. (1) Add two drops of tincture of metaphen to each gallon of water in the tank to attempt to destroy the organism. Several other treatments of the sick fish are also recommended: (2) Salt treatment, (3) heat treatment, (4) Apply hydrogen peroxide to the spot while holding fish in a damp net. Let it disinfect for 15-30 seconds before returning fish to the aquarium. Be sure to re-disinfect the net. (5) Malachite green, (6) Methyline Blue, (7) Acriflavin. |
|
|
|
Jul 21 2005, 12:39 AM
Post
#23
|
|
|
Newbie Group: Member Posts: 1 Joined: 21-July 05 Member No.: 14752 |
My tropical fish seem to be coming down with this "disease", I think. They appear to be healthy, but practically overnight, they are afflicted. The most distinguishing sign is that their mouths are stuck open. They don't appear to have any fungus coming out of their mouths, it is just like their mouth is stuck in the open position. Shortly thereafter, they die. I have had this happen to 2 white clouds, 1 serpae tetra and a cardinal. I thought that perhaps they were getting mouth fungus, but there aren't any filamentous fungus strands coming from their mouths. I don't know if this is a disease, or what. I don't know how to "cure" them, because I have never seen this before. Has anyone else had this happen to them (well, their fish actually)? If you need any additional information, you may have it, I just don't know what else to describe. The rest of the fish in the tank (125 gal., serpaes, neons, black skirts, mollies, pictus cats, white clouds, zebra danios) are all doing fine and eating like pigs. But then all of a sudden, one of the fish is at the surface of the water, with his mouth wide open (like he can't close it) and then within hours he/she is dead. And the pictus seem to be eating them willy nilly, but they aren't getting sick. What to do? Thanks, Ken
|
|
|
|
Aug 10 2005, 01:56 AM
Post
#24
|
|
|
Newbie Group: Member Posts: 1 Joined: 10-August 05 Member No.: 15156 |
What NOT to do for Fin Rot
I'm new at the tropical fish hobby and believe me I'm learning some pretty expensive lessons. If anyone can help me now I'll take any advice. I had a blue velvet damsel with fin rot and it appeared a few other fish were getting the same problem. I caught this while my husband was out of town with my daughter on vacation. So, I went to our local pet store and purchased Myacin-Two (which claims to work for fin rot) and used it according to instructions in one of our 55 gallon tanks. BIG MISTAKE! By the last day of the medication, I saw suffering fish, and did a 50% water change in addition to changing my filters to get rid of the Myacin Two. I moved some of the fish into the second tank, thinking I was going to try to save some of the fish. I knew I was living rather dangerously here as I have a a snowflake eel in the second tank that is about 14-1/2 inches long. I like to keep him to himself because he likes to nip. He seemed to get a long with the three I put in that managed to survive the Myacin Two ordeal. I did a couple of water changes which after several changes now means all the medication should be removed, left the tank alone for a few weeks only taking care to control the NO2, NO3, PH, and Temps regularly until I felt it was safe to re-intrduce fish into the tank. By now, my snowflake eel has killed two of the three lone survivors of the tank that was treated with Myacin Two. Only the Fiji Devil made it and that was more than likely due to it's size. So, now it has been something like three weeks and my PH is 8.0, my Nitrite is 0.3, Nitrate is 12.5, Salinity is 1.022, temp is 80 degrees and I'm feeling like MAYBE I can introduce some yellow tail damsels into the tank. So, I went to my local store and bought a few good looking ones. Six hours later, they are dead and my Fiji Devil isn't looking good either. What the heck am I doing wrong here or what is wrong with the tank? |
|
|
|
Aug 10 2005, 07:32 AM
Post
#25
|
|
|
Fish Crazy Group: Member Posts: 138 Joined: 1-June 05 From: Nr Edinburgh, Scotland Member No.: 13773 |
Great thread - how about some pictures to help identification too ?
|
|
|
|
Aug 19 2005, 06:08 PM
Post
#26
|
|
|
Newbie Group: Member Posts: 5 Joined: 19-August 05 From: london Member No.: 15348 |
hi there could someone please help me: 4 of my 12 fish died and i dont know why! QUOTE(bodasafa @ Oct 21 2004, 05:27 AM) Bacteria are present everywhere on both land and in the water and are normally classified as either 'good' bacteria or 'bad' bacteria. The good bacteria in the aquarium consist of the ones that make up the biological filter. These bacteria break down ammonia and nitrate so that it can be removed from the water. Without good bacteria most life would not be able to exist. The bad bacteria are often bacteria that are normally present but don't cause problems until the fish is injured, stressed or suffering from another disease. These bad bacteria take advantage of the compromised animal's weakened immune system and reproduce extremely quickly, creating the resultant sicknesses and problems. The key to dealing with any bacterial infection is early recognition and treatment. Of course, prevention through careful introduction of new fish, plants and water, as well as maintaining a healthy, stress-free environment for your fish, is still the best course of action. This two-part article will assist you in the identification and treatment of some of the more common bacterial infections in fish. Fin rot Signs: Fin rot often begins with red streaks in the fins that are soon followed by abnormal lightening of the edge of the fin and then a fraying or rotting of the fin membrane and edges. This infection can lead to a complete rotting of the fin and can spread to the body and lead to death. Transmission: The bacteria can be transmitted through the water from open ulcers, feces of infected fish, or through the consumption of infected, dead or dying fish in the tank. Predisposing factors: This disease is not highly contagious, however it is often associated with poorly kept or dirty tanks with poor water quality. Any dead fish should quickly be removed and disposed of. Diseased live fish should be removed to a treatment tank. Treatment: The antibiotics kanamycin or erythromycin are sometimes successful. All infected fish should be handled with care to prevent transmission to humans through open wounds or cuts Skin ulcers Signs: Ulcers usually show up as raw opened areas on the skin. They often have reddened edges and may be associated with other symptoms of systemic infection or disease. Cause: Aeromonas, Pseudomonas, Mycobacterium and Vibrio Transmission: The bacteria are commonly found in the water and will invade a wound or skin injury on an otherwise healthy fish. Predisposing factors: Previously damaged skin, poor water conditions, and stress can all lead to an increase in ulcers. Treatment: Antibiotic baths coupled with anti-fungal baths containing phenoxyethanol are the most common treatments. Improving water quality, reducing stress, and decreasing the risk of injury are all very important in reducing the incidence of ulcers. Vibriosis Vibriosis is most often found in marine or brackish water fish but can occasionally be found in tropical species as well. Signs: There are two forms of vibriosis. Acute Form: Death may occur suddenly, before any signs are noticed. Symptoms may include increased respiration, loss of appetite, lethargy, skin hemorrhages, and death. Post mortem exams may reveal enlarged internal organs, but without a diagnostic test, this disease is difficult to distinguish from other bacterial infections. Chronic Form: Exophthalmos, ulcers, and intestinal inflammation in fish that have died. Transmission: Fish contract the bacteria Vibrio anguillarum through open sores or feeding on dead fish that died from the disease. Treatment: The best treatment includes the oral antibiotics chloramphenicol or furazolidone. Summary These are just a few of the most common bacterial infections that can infect fish. After reviewing the list of infections, it is very clear that most bacterial infections are caused by a few similar situations, and that following a few basic precautions can prevent most of these infections. The precautions include maintaining excellent water quality at all times, quickly removing any dead or diseased fish from the tank, treating all diseased fish, never introducing diseased or sick fish into your community tank, and preventing injuries from fighting or unsuitable habitat. If these basic guidelines are followed, bacterial infections will be a very rare occurrence in your tank. [right][snapback]518067[/snapback][/right] |
|
|
|
Aug 19 2005, 07:21 PM
Post
#27
|
|
|
Fish Crazy Group: Member Posts: 121 Joined: 30-June 05 Member No.: 14348 |
I have learned the hard way how important a QT is. I will soon be setting one up. I think we have dec ided on buying two 10gallon set ups to place below our 55 gallon gourami/livebearer tank. One 10 gallon will be for a nursery tank; the other for the QT. I am now treating my tank AGAIN for ich because my husband just HAD to have a fish at Wal-mart. Brought it home, and the livebearers now all have ich.
|
|
|
|
Jul 25 2006, 08:46 AM
Post
#28
|
|
|
Fish Fanatic Group: Members Posts: 35 Joined: 25-July 06 From: WA Member No.: 23206 |
has any one heard of a tumor like disease? i didnt see anythign mentioned above.
|
|
|
|
Sep 24 2006, 10:49 PM
Post
#29
|
|
|
Fishaholic Group: Members Posts: 312 Joined: 3-July 06 From: Long Island, NY Member No.: 22594 |
Anyone ever have a molly with one eye partially covered by what looked like a white shell of skin? (My female balloon molly) I think she can see though it--Not cloudy--more like type of cataract--but hard==looks like it might even dry up and fall off-hopefully we just did a full water change...but can't find anythng like this listed anywhere!! Any input would be appreciatd!!- wendy
|
|
|
|
Sep 27 2006, 02:01 PM
Post
#30
|
|
![]() Fish Fanatic Group: Members Posts: 63 Joined: 7-July 06 From: UK Member No.: 22733 |
I successfully treated my Tropical fish aquarium with Parazin P, for Anchor worm. And it worked wonders!
I was advised by waterlife, not to pull the worm out. As it will moult off in time! |
|
|
|
Nov 8 2006, 09:00 AM
Post
#31
|
|
|
Newbie Group: Member Posts: 3 Joined: 8-November 06 Member No.: 26382 |
lots of good post here not much for me to say really, the most obvouis way to care for your fish is your water as most fish keepers should no! the one thing i have lernt in just over 5 years of fish keeping is how often i should clean my fillters NOT as often as you would think with a larger tank like my rio 400 i have 2 fluvalm 305 externals runnung and i found that i only have to clean them on a rotor basis once every mounth somtimes if the flow is still strong o will leave it a little longer as long as the water changes are regular every thing stays just fine, as i should no not losing any fish in over 2 years now....
|
|
|
|
Nov 9 2006, 01:16 AM
Post
#32
|
|
|
Newbie Group: Member Posts: 14 Joined: 11-June 06 From: South Australia Member No.: 22025 |
Heeeeeeeeeeeeeelp!!!!! |
|
|
|
Feb 8 2007, 10:11 PM
Post
#33
|
|
|
Newbie Group: Member Posts: 4 Joined: 5-January 07 Member No.: 27877 |
QUOTE(hellohefalump @ Sep 30 2004, 02:12 PM) [snapback]494398[/snapback] Fish Tuberculosis My goldfish tank got tuberculosis from a contaminated holiday food block. One of the fish was blind and not getting enough to eat so I'd been putting blocks in to feed him up a bit. Anyway, I was away for two days and when I came back ALL my goldfish had tb. I treated them with a 50% water change, aquarium salt, and melafix. Two died, two survived. I'm not sure if this was the best way to treat tb, but that's what I did... How did you diagnose T.B.? |
|
|
|
May 26 2007, 01:14 AM
Post
#34
|
|
|
Fish Crazy Group: Members Posts: 100 Joined: 26-May 07 Member No.: 32344 |
Hemmorhagic Septicima:
Transmitted easily from goldfish to cichlids among other fish. Goldfish seem to have a greater resistance, so don't mix these coldwater fish with warm water fish. The colder the water, the slower bacteria infect and multiply, being introduced from coldwater to a warm troical tank causes this silent disease to flourish. Bloody streaks begin to appear on the fishes fins. Also random bloody streaks, "cuts" and marks will appear over the main body. There are sometimes multiple factors that cause hemmoraghing, like fungus and bacteria, but normally it is caused by bacteria eating away at the skin. If left untreated, it will be fatal and is fairly contagious. If you have one fish infected, I personally reccoment treating the entire tank, taking care if you have any scaless fish (loaches/knife fish) or invertabrates which can be killed by the medicines themselves. It is definately curable, but find the medicines that specifically say they treat Hemmoragic speticima or similar bacterial diseases, and read the warning labels to see if your invertabrates are in danger. |
|
|
|
Feb 12 2008, 06:24 PM
Post
#35
|
|
|
Newbie Group: Member Posts: 2 Joined: 12-February 08 Member No.: 39320 |
No, no. I meant which of the diseases you needed a source for. Hi, I am new to forums but have been a hobbyist for 8 years. I have questions about my Lionfish wanting to eat but can't open his mouth. He has not eaten in 4 weeks, but tries to really hard. I have researched for weeks and can't find anything. Have even talked to large public aquariums. I am not sure how to post a question. |
|
|
|
Mar 18 2008, 08:36 PM
Post
#36
|
|
|
Newbie Group: Members Posts: 2 Joined: 18-March 08 From: Oldham Manchester Member No.: 40449 |
Might sound a bit thick here but i'm abit worried about one of my Tiger Barbs. What are the symptoms of White spot.
The Tiger Barb is showing discolored skin the dark stripes are looking grey/light green (Just of white really). Any help would be greatly received Thanks Jono Whitespot (ich) lives in the water so if your fish get it, you need to treat the whole tank and not just the affected fish. When my fish have had ich I have done a fairly big water change, say 50% and then dosed them with King British White Spot Control. There are many ich meds out there but this is the one I used. Also raise the temperature a little if you can because this will speed up the ich lifecycle. The important thing about treating whitespot is that you need to have patience. There is no quick cure. Once your fish have the spots there is nothing that can be done about them, what you're trying to do is kill off whats in the water. Treatment should continue for at least 4/5 days after the spots have cleared to make sure that the ich in the water is once again dormant. |
|
|
|
Jul 2 2008, 02:27 PM
Post
#37
|
|
|
Newbie Group: Members Posts: 1 Joined: 2-July 08 Member No.: 42997 |
In reply to the Internal Bacterial Infection:
I have a turquoise guppy and two neon tetras that have been in my 2.5 tank for about a week. The filter is working properly, and the water is fine. However, one of my tetras was not sociable, hiding in the corner all day, and eating very little, in addition to darkening, and the guppy had a long string of poo--which are the symptoms that Skimpy has listed. This morning I did a 30% water change and added a few granules of salt. The guppy did not act sick, other than the feces, so I'm not sure how he is doing as far as the infection goes. The tetra already seems to be doing better--he is not as dark, and he is moving around much more than he has the past two days. |
|
|
|