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Help Quick!please Help!, HELP IM IN PANIC HELP!! OH NO!!!
MollyFresh
post Jul 17 2008, 07:15 PM
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I have a new 35 gallon hexagon that I set up about a week ago and I got some starter fish and they had babies. I don't want my babies to die from ammonia so I would like to get some filter media!!! I have checked everyone I know and the fish stores and they don't give it. I only have 1 other tank and its a rectangle 10 gallon with 10 fry already in it and 4 balloon mollies but it is still cycling also!!! It is currently in an ammonia spike of like 1.5 ppm and I can't put the new fry in that!! PLEASE is there ANYTHING I CAN DO!!! I don't want the babies to die!! The adult fish in the 35 gal- are in the breeder box so that they don't eat the fry and the fry are in the tank swimming around! What can i do!?!? I refuse to return my fish so thats not happening. What can I do?! I live in south new jersey can anyone give me filter media or suggest what I do at this point?! PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE!!

This post has been edited by MollyFresh: Jul 17 2008, 07:23 PM
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minxfishy
post Jul 17 2008, 07:24 PM
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Water changes, water changes, water changes, sorry to say it, but without mature media thats your only option. Do you have a liquid test kit to check the water parameters?

I dont want to sound condecending, but you were advised not to add fish until you had done a fishless cycle.

Please get a test kit and check daily for ammonia and nitrite and do water changes to keep the levels under 0.25ppm until the tank is fully cycled, which could take up to 6 weeks.

Also do water changes on your 10g to keep the ammonia and nitrite as low as possible.
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Wilder
post Jul 17 2008, 07:25 PM
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Not Over The Hill Yet. Tweety you are just a little cutie pie.
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http://www.fishforums.net/content/New-to-t...ia-To-Newbies-/
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MollyFresh
post Jul 17 2008, 07:32 PM
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Doing a million water changes will not work, I have tried it.
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JenCliBee
post Jul 17 2008, 07:32 PM
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QUOTE
I refuse to return my fish so thats not happening.


Not 2 sound rude but u should have thought about this before buying them in the first place as im aware like minx said u were advised not 2 add fish untill it had been cycled but u disregarded this info and not just once!!!! you have 2 uncycled tanks..... if u cared for the fish as much as u claim u do then y did u submit them 2 unsitibale conditions in the 1st place huh.gif
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MollyFresh
post Jul 17 2008, 07:33 PM
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QUOTE (Wilder @ Jul 17 2008, 07:25 PM) *



That post has not been updated and I have seen that, there are no people neer me.
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Wilder
post Jul 17 2008, 07:38 PM
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Not Over The Hill Yet. Tweety you are just a little cutie pie.
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All you can do is water changes and increase aeration in the tank.
Salt helps but can't add it with young fry.
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MollyFresh
post Jul 17 2008, 07:50 PM
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do you think that doing alot of water changes will work?? I am not sure because I have done them in the past when my ammonia was at like 2 ppm and it didnt even go down a little bit. I am also worried about feeding my babies.. since its such a big tank I am not sure they will see the food
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minxfishy
post Jul 17 2008, 07:57 PM
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Im afraid its the only option if you cant return the fish. I know you may think we are being harsh, but we are really just trying to help.

Have a good read here: http://www.fishforums.net/content/New-to-t...eady-have-fish/

Its Miss Wiggles pinned topic for beginners on cycling with fish.

Sometimes its necessary to do several large water changes daily with a fish in cycle, so stock up on dechlorinator and try to match the temperature of the water you are putting back into the tank to reduce the stress on the fish and the fry.

There are some specially prepared foods for fry, liquifry is one, that will be beneficial to them and easier for the digest than regular fish food.

This post has been edited by minxfishy: Jul 17 2008, 07:58 PM
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kj23502
post Jul 18 2008, 06:39 PM
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Why are the best looking fish hardest to keep?
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However I would only feed your a few times a week since adding food w/only cause more waste to build up and the cycle to tank longer + it could possibly kill more fish.

Oh yea. Just to let you know that because you ignored the advice you are burning and suffocating your fish as this is what ammonia and nitrite do in that order. No wonder fish die. I think people would to if they were subject to this for a period of time sly.gif

All you had to do was LISTEN:
QUOTE (Corleone @ Jun 25 2008, 12:22 PM) *
QUOTE (MollyFresh @ Jun 25 2008, 12:53 PM) *
Okay thank you! <3 Well I just checked my Ammonia and Its at 0.50 - 1.0 I'm not sure exactly what it is but there IS some ammonia in the water. Now is this okay?? I know that ammonia is bad but shouldnt the bacteria eat it? what if there is no bacteria in the water, wouldnt that be bad?


Yes, it would be bad, your tank is not cycled. Though the bacteria live in the filter, primarily, not free in the water. .50 is panic levels, anything over .25 is of immediate concern. Anything above 0 is bad. What type of test kit do you have? if you're using strips, switch to liquid drop tests. They may be more on the initial purchase, but they're more accurate and reliable, easier to get an accurate read, and even though they cost slightly more the bottles will give you far more tests than a package of strips.

Review the stickies at the top of this forum, particularly these threads:

What's cycling? (If you cycled it like the fish store told you to, it's not cycled):
<a href="http://www.fishforums.net/content/New-to-t...eady-have-fish/" target="_blank">http://www.fishforums.net/content/New-to-t...eady-have-fish/</a>

Fishless cycling:
<a href="http://www.fishforums.net/content/New-to-t...shless-Cycling/" target="_blank">http://www.fishforums.net/content/New-to-t...shless-Cycling/</a>

Cycling in general (covers cycling with fish in the tank):
<a href="http://www.fishforums.net/content/New-to-t...esource-center/" target="_blank">http://www.fishforums.net/content/New-to-t...esource-center/</a>

The beginner resource center and tank maintenance guide are good things, but cycling is your immediate concern.

Now... You need to do an immediate water change, at least 50% of the water. I assume you have some sort of water conditioner that removes chlorine? Make sure to always use it on new water. From there you have two options.

Better option: Return the fish if possible and proceed with fishless cycling, as per the link above. This should take 3-4 weeks of daily water testing and some easy eyedropper work, after which you're ready for fish.

Second option: Continue to do water changes as frequently and as large as necessary to keep ammonia under .25. Eventually nitrite will begin to rise, you'll need that under .25 as well. Once both are reliably 0 without water changes, you're home free - this could take as much as two or three months, will be a great deal of work, and even keeping ammonia and nitrite down, you might lose fish. The ammonia levels will still be stressful for fish, and increase the chances of a disease outbreak. Even something easily managed in a cycled tank is a sure recipe for disaster in a cycling tank.




confused.gif confused.gif confused.gif confused.gif confused.gif confused.gif confused.gif confused.gif confused.gif

Yea i'm in a crabby mood...I give most of my good mood to my kids.

This post has been edited by kj23502: Jul 18 2008, 06:41 PM
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