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Journal Setting Up A 125 Gallon Malawi W/pics, new fish & pics 3-30
kj23502
post Feb 28 2008, 03:58 PM
Post #41


Why are the best looking fish hardest to keep?
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I tested for ammonia last night and the reading was .6. i put an extra dose of cycle in the tank and this morning i checked again and was lower. I also changed 6 gallons of water(not adding the seachem malawi/cichlid buffer so it didn't raise the ph any higher). It's my understanding from all that I've read that a higher ph makes ammonia more lethal to fish at lower ammonia levels, than if the ph was neutral. I'll check again this evening. I haven't lost any fish yet, that I can see. They are still hanging out seemingly just fine and they ate their breakfast. (although they are probably not fine). We'll see how it goes.

PLEASE ADD ANY ADVICE ABOUT THIS IF YOU CAN. I was expecting the levels to go up a bit b/c of adding so many fish, I am wondering if I'm coping with it fine or not. I've never dealt with it like this before. Thank you!!

---edit---
I just did another ammonia test with a different kit. The other one measures like this: 0, .6, 1.2, 2.4, 4.9, 7.3. I did one that goes 0, .25, .5, 1.0, 2.0, 4.0, 8.0. This test showed it was .25ppm. Lower than it was showing on the other one(.6).

This post has been edited by kj23502: Feb 28 2008, 08:22 PM
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caboose_122
post Feb 28 2008, 11:44 PM
Post #42


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i have never heard of ph affecting how leathal ammonia is to fish. i use the nutrafin tesk kits, they have worked excellent for me, and those fish are going to be stunners!

alex
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Larissa
post Feb 28 2008, 11:52 PM
Post #43


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QUOTE (caboose_122 @ Feb 28 2008, 11:44 PM) *
i have never heard of ph affecting how leathal ammonia is to fish. i use the nutrafin tesk kits, they have worked excellent for me, and those fish are going to be stunners!

alex


Dosn't your nutrafin test kit have a table at the back off the instructions booklet for ammonia that tells you the amount of lethal ammonia in your water - mine does if I remember rightly. On the table you can see as the pH increases so does the level of lethal ammonia. It has something to do with how ammonia in ammonium becomes more soluble at higher a pH or something like that - I don't remember the exact science behind it.
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kj23502
post Feb 29 2008, 02:28 AM
Post #44


Why are the best looking fish hardest to keep?
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QUOTE (Larissa @ Feb 28 2008, 05:52 PM) *
QUOTE (caboose_122 @ Feb 28 2008, 11:44 PM) *
i have never heard of ph affecting how leathal ammonia is to fish. i use the nutrafin tesk kits, they have worked excellent for me, and those fish are going to be stunners!

alex


Dosn't your nutrafin test kit have a table at the back off the instructions booklet for ammonia that tells you the amount of lethal ammonia in your water - mine does if I remember rightly. On the table you can see as the pH increases so does the level of lethal ammonia. It has something to do with how ammonia in ammonium becomes more soluble at higher a pH or something like that - I don't remember the exact science behind it.


Here's something I read out of a booklet.

Ammonia is produced by fish respiration and the decay of waste products in the aquarium. The decomposition of organic matter such as excess food, dead leaves, and fish sick.gif also produce ammonia. Ammonia can be present in 2 forms. Ammonia NH3, which is a toxic gas, and ionic ammonium NH4, which is much less deadly. The ph of the water is the major factor that determines the ratio of the two ammoniums. When the ph is high, the ammonia is in its toxic form. Toxic ammonia will increase exponentially with increasing ph levels and temperature. a ph value of over 8 causes a corresponding rapid incread in the toxic ammonia component.

I didn't know all this until I just started reading about it! There's a lot of stuff to learn about fish keeping! I love reading about it smile.gif

I still can't beleive they swim their own poo(waste products)! sick.gif sick.gif That's why i didn't eat fish for a long time. laugh.gif

This post has been edited by kj23502: Feb 29 2008, 02:47 PM
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caboose_122
post Feb 29 2008, 02:54 AM
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i guess you learn something new every day laugh.gif i never knew that
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kj23502
post Feb 29 2008, 02:46 PM
Post #46


Why are the best looking fish hardest to keep?
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I sent a pm to Ferris and this is his reply:

QUOTE
QUOTE
hi all I have to do to my 125 is add sand and water and get the 2nd filter set up. My question is....when can I move my fish from the 29 to the 125? I'm guessing that I can as soon as all my ammonia and nitrite levels are fine in the 29 b/c that would mean my bacteria colony is established and everything should be ready to go, right? (I also added a sponge filter rated for a 30 gallon tank that I can move over to the large tank as well).

Thanks, Korrine

ps I'll add this and your reply to my post for other people to read also!


Hi,

You should be fine to transfer fish and filter(s) as soon as the 29 has stable water parameters assuming that you are moving the filter(s) over aswell (or at least the filter media).

Any small ammonia/nitrate spikes should be diluted by the much larger water volume, especially given the size and number of current fish and the waste they will produce. good.gif

F


Thank you, ferris. Yes I plan on moving the eheim and the sponge filter to the 125 gallon tank.I just did a 40% water change. That's all I could do because Ian (my 7 mo. old) started crying so I had to wrap it up and get it filled again. The ammonia was probably between 0 and .25 this morning. My husband says I'm color blind and he wasn't here to help compare! I had to compare between a yellow (0) and yellow green (.25). It wasn't completely yellow green, but not plain yellow either. So there was just a touch in it. The fish are still actively swimming and chasing eachother. They seem as though they are "handling" it ok.

Thanks again, Korrine
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kj23502
post Feb 29 2008, 02:55 PM
Post #47


Why are the best looking fish hardest to keep?
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I just saw that two of my tiny fish have red gills. sad1.gif cry1.gif They are the tiniest in there!

---edit---

I also read to not keep the regular feeding schedule when there are spikes in ammonia. Then they won't create as much waste and there should be a lot less leftover food. I doubt there's very much leftover food. What the fish toward the top don't eat, the ones hiding in the rocks will zoom out and get them! I'm feeding once a day for right now.

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wslinky
post Feb 29 2008, 03:18 PM
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QUOTE (kj23502 @ Feb 29 2008, 06:55 AM) *
I just saw that two of my tiny fish have red gills. sad1.gif cry1.gif They are the tiniest in there!

---edit---

I also read to not keep the regular feeding schedule when there are spikes in ammonia. Then they won't create as much waste and there should be a lot less leftover food. I doubt there's very much leftover food. What the fish toward the top don't eat, the ones hiding in the rocks will zoom out and get them! I'm feeding once a day for right now.


I think you could probably cut back to feeding once everyother day, and do at least a 25% water change a day. Try and keep NH3 and NO2 as low as possible.
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kj23502
post Feb 29 2008, 03:56 PM
Post #49


Why are the best looking fish hardest to keep?
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QUOTE (wslinky @ Feb 29 2008, 09:18 AM) *
QUOTE (kj23502 @ Feb 29 2008, 06:55 AM) *
I just saw that two of my tiny fish have red gills. sad1.gif cry1.gif They are the tiniest in there!

---edit---

I also read to not keep the regular feeding schedule when there are spikes in ammonia. Then they won't create as much waste and there should be a lot less leftover food. I doubt there's very much leftover food. What the fish toward the top don't eat, the ones hiding in the rocks will zoom out and get them! I'm feeding once a day for right now.


I think you could probably cut back to feeding once everyother day, and do at least a 25% water change a day. Try and keep NH3 and NO2 as low as possible.

Thank you! Will try! Hopefully it all works out. I should've listened to Ferris when he said only to keep 8 in the 29. Then I would've only added 4 fish and it probably would've been ok.

TO EVERYONE READING: seriously....when mods and experienced ppl give advice...listen. I didn't and ordered extra fish b/c there was no extra shipping charges when you order more(trying to get more bang for the buck) and now I could lose some or ALL of them anyway!!! Newbee's like I was..... TAKE NOTE!!
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kj23502
post Feb 29 2008, 07:52 PM
Post #50


Why are the best looking fish hardest to keep?
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Ok, I'm spazo paranoid excl.gif . I checked for ammonia again. I think it's really close to 0. i couldn't tell for sure if there was any in it. I tried both the tests. One that goes from yellow(0) to blue(8.0). and the other is clear(0) to orange shades(highest being 7.3). I can't tell for sure if the water in the first test is pure yellow or has a tiny tinge to it. Same with the second kit. Can't tell if water is clear or has a tiny tinge??!! I held the tube against the white paper like your supposed to. I even walked to a sun shiny spot in our house to try and get better lighting!

Color blind....MAYBE laugh.gif ! I'll check again in a few hours, when my hubby gets home from work and see what he thinks.

-edit--

my nitrites are 0 and nitrates are about 15-20ppm. sad2.gif if ammonia's going up nitrites should be going up and then down after the tank can handle it again????

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kj23502
post Feb 29 2008, 10:46 PM
Post #51


Why are the best looking fish hardest to keep?
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I pm'd ferris again.....
QUOTE
Hi again...i read that plants can use ammonia directly from the water. What do you think about adding a couple more java verns to help? Or would you not recommend it? My other plants seem to be alright. I have 2 java fern and a couple blobs of Java Moss. I've heard of them digging them up. I could put in potted ones and then I could move them to my 125 when I move the fish over.

or is there other kinds of plants you'd recommend?

thanks again for your patience with my questions and for continuing to help me even though I got to many fish...Korrine


Hi,

Plants will make little or no difference to water parameters unless you heavily plant the tank and Mbuna will normally uproot them anyway. Plants don't tend to last very long in African tanks - adult Mbuna especially will make short work of them. Its certainly not a good idea to rely on them for water quality - that needs to be handled by mechanical and biological filtration.

No problem with the questions

F

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kj23502
post Feb 29 2008, 11:12 PM
Post #52


Why are the best looking fish hardest to keep?
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I walked up to the tank and they all swam out from the coral rocks. They just sat there at the front of the glass staring at me. I grabbed ahold of that opportunity to do a quick head count. It appears that all of them were there. My pleco and snail are still alive also. I'm still lucky for now. We'll see!!

My readings earlier were similar to now. Hubby said that there was tinge of color. Just barely. So it's pretty close to 0, but not quite. That's good. I'll see what it is in the morning. I want everything to stabalize in my little 29 gallon so I can swap two of the filters and the fish over to my 125 gallon....patience....I tell myself!!! I'm not to good at patience! rolleyes.gif
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wslinky
post Mar 1 2008, 12:43 AM
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QUOTE (kj23502 @ Feb 29 2008, 03:12 PM) *
My readings earlier were similar to now. Hubby said that there was tinge of color. Just barely. So it's pretty close to 0, but not quite. That's good. I'll see what it is in the morning. I want everything to stabalize in my little 29 gallon so I can swap two of the filters and the fish over to my 125 gallon....patience....I tell myself!!! I'm not to good at patience! rolleyes.gif


Not sure how you are trying to judge color, the best way I have found is to use the whitest light I have and hold the tube against something white, this will give you the best chance of seeing the difference in colors.

I have the same problem with patience, especially right now since I have to have the lights on for the plants, it was ok when I could leave them off. You and I seem to be about the same place right now, in the next few weeks we both should be able to add fish, Good Luck Waiting!!!
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kj23502
post Mar 1 2008, 05:01 PM
Post #54


Why are the best looking fish hardest to keep?
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This morning ammonia was around .50 so I changed 30% of the water. The fish followed and chased around my siphon hose! It's great. I love them. wub.gif It's almost like I added a whole bunch of kids to my family laugh.gif . They're also starting to pick at my jave fern and java moss! I was wondering how long those would last!

The rest of the readings are:

Nitrate (n03) 20ppm
Nitrite (n02) 0
Total hardness 300 ppm
Alkalinity 300 ppm
ph 8

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kj23502
post Mar 1 2008, 07:13 PM
Post #55


Why are the best looking fish hardest to keep?
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I was wondering???....should I get some ammo Lock or Prime sad2.gif
Or would that mess up my test results too much? And since i have soo many fish in there, will there always be some ammonia present? I was wondering also. The eheim and sponge filter should be bacteria ridden after a couple weeks, right? The only other filter in the 29 is a Whisper Power filter 30 (hob). Thinking about moving fish over to 125 with the eheim and sponge filter....sad2.gif

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Larissa
post Mar 1 2008, 07:41 PM
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From what I know - and that's not very much - Ammo lock = bad and Prime = good. I think ammo lock starves your filter of ammonia so the bacteria has nothing to feed on. As a result your tank never cycles. Prime on the other hand does not do this so it is fine. I might be wrong about all of that though so perhaps someone could clarify.
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kj23502
post Mar 1 2008, 08:35 PM
Post #57


Why are the best looking fish hardest to keep?